When I told my parents I was going to Tulum for vacation, they were confused. But there’s nothing there except for some ruins, was their response. They went for their 10th wedding anniversary back in 1993. Boy, were they wrong. It has now become a spectacle, a mecca for IG “models”, and somewhat of an adult theme park on the beach. I went in 2018 and again in 2020 and it changed immensely, even in that short time. But despite all of this over done fanfare, you can still enjoy Tulum and take it in for what it is, with a little (or actually a lot) of planning. And get your Instagram account ready. 😉
Tulum Areas
Tulum has different areas for different interests, and although it is possible to hop around from one area to the next, the amount of traffic, hassle and cost can make it time consuming and stressful. There are currently only cabs in Tulum, which are limited and can be costly (no Ubers). With that in mind, here are some questions to help you select which area is best for you, along with the pros and cons of each areas.
- What type of experience do you want? A lazy beach trip, or would you prefer to explore cenotes, culture, and the surrounding area?
- What’s your budget?
- Will you want to have a car?
- Who are you going with? Your partner, a group of singles, or a family?
Tulum Town
Pros
In my opinion, the town of Tulum has the most culture, most bang for the buck, easiest to travel to sites such as the cenotes & the Tulum ruins. Hotels range from $90-150/night and they have some great restaurants and bars here, including one that specializes in mojitos and live music most nights (Batey’s). These places are also more affordable with more of a laid back, come as you are vibe. The shopping also is better priced. For example, I bought a large dream catcher here for $30 USD, and saw the exact same one on the beach priced at $400. I stayed in town 4 nights on my last trip and 2 nights on the beach.
Cons
You’ll have to either take a taxi or drive to the beach. This can be anywhere from 20 mins up to an hour, depending on the time of day (traffic). We did take taxis to the beach area a few nights, although this was so much of a headache I’d rather not do it again. Going to the beach for the day with a car was much easier; I’d suggest Papaya Playa, as it’s the closest beach “club” from town. And although the entire strip of the beach in Tulum is public, you probably want to enjoy the conveniences of using lounge chairs and being able to order food and drink-so pick a beach club! Last, the beach area has more upscale choices for nightlife, and the more famous instragramed spots (if this is important to you).
Recommended For…
Overall, I’d recommend Tulum town if you’re on a budget, would prefer to spend more time seeing sites other than the beach, and prefer a more laid back vibe. It’s great for couples and singles alike, and I’d recommend getting a car if you would like to venture to the beach and other attractions.
Tulum Beach
Pros
There are several beautiful, high-end resorts spanning the length of the beach, and many have their own restaurants and/or beach bars. It is also amazing to wake up to the beach literally right there, be waited on, and have the convenience of being able to walk back to your room. There are also tons of cute little bars, eateries, juice bars, (overpriced) boutiques and beach clubs/high end hotels are on the left. Most have their unique, grand “Tulum inspired” art or sculpture of sorts. The most famous/instagramable is “Mother Earth” at Raw Love-complete with a line to take a picture at, for all the IG models ;).
Cons
However, there are some cons you may want to take into consideration first. Prepare to spend more here-the average hotel cost is around $300-500. Also, cell service AND wifi is pretty terrible here-make plans with people ahead of time because you likely won’t be able to contact them once out. It’s also difficult to get around, due to the excessive amount of traffic on the single beach road. This road is also in terrible shape, is extremely narrow and shared with pedestrians and cyclists. If you’d like to walk around this area, I’d suggest walking along the beach -only during the day for safety, OR be patient if you’re going to take a cab. Having a car is also an option and I believe there are paid public parking lots on the beach road. Most parking at hotels is for staying guests only, but there are exceptions for visitors.
Recommended For…
Overall, the beach if for you if you’d either like to spend most of your time at the beach, you are prepared to spend more, you’d like to see all the famous instragramed spots, you want to party at beach night clubs, and you’d prefer more upscale/bougie outings (more on this later). There’s also no need for a car in this area. The beach is great for couples but amazing for singles.
North Beach vs. South Beach
If the beach is for you, there are then 2 main areas along the beach to consider. The South part of the beach (think Nomade) has the more popular (expensive) hotels, restaurants, instragramable places, bars and beach clubs, but is also far more congested and crowded. However I’d recommend staying close to here if you’d like to frequent these areas, for ease of walkability and to avoid time in traffic. North Beach (closer to the Tulum Ruins) is also still very beautiful but a little quieter, so it would be better for couples or those looking for a quieter beach bum trip. I’ve also heard the snorkling is better here but haven’t tried myself. Papaya Playa is right in the middle of these two, but also has one of the most popular parties/beaches in town.
Accommodation
Once you’ve figured out the area of Tulum that would work best for you, I’d recommend searching for accommodation very early-a few months in advance, if possible, and with flexible dates. Since a lot of stays are fairly pricey, the more affordable places get booked early. Also, stays are usually cheaper during the week, so play with your dates if you’re on a budget. Then book your flight. Here are a few places I’ve stayed at in the past, but contact me for a more detailed discription, if any interest you.
Tulum Town
Coco Hacienda
I stayed here 5 nights in Nov. 2020 and dare to say it may be the best in Tulum town. A hurricane recently blew through and part of the hotel was under construction as a result, so my friend and I were given upgraded room. We were also the only guests for 4 of the 5 nights and were treated like ROYALTY. I’m not sure if it was because we were the only guests to dote on, or if they always provide this level of hospitality, but we felt like queens. The owner was so jovial and happy and Christopher, the property manager on duty, was very helpful, providing recommendations, hauling taxis, and going above and beyond by arranging a birthday surprise with flowers, a candle, a bottle of lambrusco. Overall, this property was well worth the price of $90/night, really top notch and far exceeded my expectations.
Una Vida
This little gem is nestled close to the hustle and bustle town. I believe they’ve done expansions and renovations (and likely increased the rate) since I visited in 2019, but we felt like we discovered an adorable little property for just over $100/night.
Beach
My Way
Located on the beach in the South part, so closer to the action. We only stayed here 2 nights but had food poisoning for a day, (thank God for 2 toilets), but we still enjoyed the time we were feeling well here. The staff treated us well when they found out we were sick, and brought pedialite on ice for us, which was very much appreciated. Great value for the South beach-$250/night in 2019.
Zamas
The best bang for the buck on the beach ($145/night) after extensive research. Our grounds keeper, Daniel, was very friendly and always helped in any way he could. Upon check-in, he offered us some welcome margaritas on the beach until our room was ready, then wheelbarrowed our luggage to our rooms (the ground was rocky/sandy).
Getting Here
Fly into the Cancun airport and either rent a car at the airport and drive into town, or take a shuttle into town. A private shuttle costs around $100 per person each way, so if you’d like to have a car during your trip, I’d suggest renting from the airport and driving yourself to save money. The drive is around 2 hours depending on traffic and other unforeseen hurdles. The drive should be safe but watch out for “topes” -very large speed bumps that aren’t always marked. Also, I would limit stopping and not make it obvious that you’re a tourist while driving. And separate some cash to make it seem like that’s all you have if worst case someone wants you to pay them to get out of a situation. In fact, always keep some cash on you in Mexico.
Restaurants, Bars & Beach Clubs
the dining scene in Tulum ranges from casual to trendy, depending on the location. The town area is far more budget friendly, no need for reservations, and has more of a laid back vibe, whereas the beach is the extreme opposite-double the price, reservations required, and dress to impress.
Located in Town
Burrito Amor
Various types of curated burritos and made to order cocktails at amazing prices. The mojitos are quite delicious.
Tres Gaeloenes
Gourmet street tacos in an intimate setting, complete with candles and the smell of copal wafting through the air. Amazing service. Very reasonable prices.
Pizza Manglar
may have been my favorite restaurant here-amazing wood fired pizza with an adorable intimate environment. Located in town off the beaten path, but well worth it. Super close to Coco Hacienda. Unique toppings, something to appease everyone-we had the prosciutto and arugula, which is one of my favorite combos. Prices and service are perfect as well-$4 for a glass of wine! They do accept credit cards here, which I would advise if you don’t have pesos (ask to be charged in pesos), because their USD exchange rate is in their favor.
Del Cielo
in town, great healthy breakfast and “fancy” coffee selection
Batey’s
the most popular bar in town, with reason. They’re known for their mojitos and grind the sugar cane fresh on site. The run about $8-10 and are quite delicious. But don’t get the margaritas-they’re mostly lime juice and honestly pretty nasty. It’s also “the place to be” with superb people watching and live music nearly nightly. I’d recommend arriving early to secure a table-especially during covid, they fill up fast and won’t allow standing room, and people stay there all night.
Mezcalaria
a casual mezcal bar next to Batey’s in town
Located on the Beach
Papaya Playa Project
PPP is a popular beach club and restaurant close to the junction of the road from town to the beach, separating the North and South. It’s very popular and trendy at night, however you can also go earlier in the day. Reservations highly recommended during the day, required at night. Tropical cocktails priced around $15 USD, and a DJ was playing tropical house when we went for an afternoon.. Very vibey scene. The security guard let us park on the street just outside the parking lot. Due to the location being closest to town, I would spend a lot of time here if you want a beach day. Also check out their popular full moon parties. Friday night or any full moon party is the night to go.
Taboo
Taboo is a very scene to be seen type of place, a club/high-end restaurant combo. It’s filled with tables like a restaurant, but you can also order bottle service that comes out with all the fan fare of a club, complete with sparklers and (men) lap dances. They also do this fan fare for birthdays, but they dropped the ball for us. The reservation memo and the hostess I told directly didn’t inform the waiter. The hostesses wear thong one pieces with a see through sarong, so if you want to wear a tight sexy dress, I’d recommend it here. There were also a lot of IG models. It was a very interesting concept and I’m not sure it was for me. Although the food was pretty good. If you love cluby vibes, this is for you. Saturday’s are supposed to be the best.
Hartwood
ONLY ACCEPTS CASH. One of the most highly acclaimed and reviewed restaurants in the South part of the beach, but I was rather disappointed the second time we went. I remember it being better a couple of years ago. The cocktails were average and the pulpo and the prawns weren’t cooked well. The skirt steak was better. It’s also a very vibey scene with LA vibes, so put on your fanciest beach attire.
Casa Jaguar
South Beach. We never went but heard it was the club to go to on Thursdays.
Mamasan Rooftop
South beach. A hotel with a rooftop cocktail lounge on the street side of the beach road.
Azulik
maybe the most instagramed place in Tulum. In the South part of the beach. Drinks are $20 a piece minimum, but they have large hammock nets and “bird nests” dining tables suspended over the jungle. It’s really a work of art.
Ahua/Raw Love
Restaurant and beach bar on the beach in the South. Bomb shrimp street tacos and delicious cocktails, but they also have healthier fare for breakfast. The restaurant is overlooking the beach and they bring in DJ’s in the afternoon-think chill tropical house. The most pristine beautiful beach I’ve ever seen and the water was so calm and warm, it felt like pool water. I lost track of time floating in the water here, and drinking delicious margaritas.
Clandistina
on the street side of the South beach road. A fun and crowded bar.
Things to Do and See
Temazcal
A Spiritual, Pre-Hispanic experience. The purpose is to physically, emotionally and/or mentally detox of what no longer serves you, so you may be rejuvenated and refreshed for new beginnings and blessings. This ceremony is a very intense one and not recommended if you are dehydrated, claustrophobic, or not in the right headspace to experience this. However, it is a very powerful ceremony and I believe an effective one at that. It can best described as a very intense sauna, with Shamans blessing you. I wont reveal all the details, but for the most part you are in this small dome, where blazing hot stones have water poured on them. After the ceremony is complete, you feel electric, and the frequency of the world is pulsating through your veins. The temazcal we chose was just outside of Tulum in a small Mayan village. Contact me for more information if you’d like to arrange this experience for yourself.
Cenote Hoppin’
Cenotes are geographical formations which can be thought of as swimming pools in caves underground. In the Yucatan peninsula, there is a water table under ground and in some areas, the ground has given way and opened up to expose the water and cave formations underneath. Some appear as small lakes or ponds; others are caves you can literally jump into, shared with bats.
Dos Ojos Cenote
Charged 300 pesos/person but check before you go since this seemed very high! Also bring bug spray!! The grounds are fairly large and include restrooms, local vendors, and a restaurant. There are 2 cenotes, or ojos (eyes). There were also mini dry caves to walk around in, and the whole cenote was centered by lush grounds with hammocks and small rock “temples” to commemorate little fairies. You will need a car or pre-arrange transportation. Our hotel concierge priced us $80 for a few hours with a private driver. You could also try making a deal with a taxi driver of your choosing.
Cenote Calavara
a pit in the ground where you can jump into, there’s also a ladder where you can climb out (or in). There are bats here as well. This one was my favorite, I felt it was very unique and we had it all to ourselves when we first went. We biked from town, but it was on the side of a small highway of sorts. Small entry fee.
Cenote Cristal & Escondido
large swimming pool like cenote, pretty crowded but a good way to relax and cool off. Also bike-able from town.
Tulum Ruins
The closest archeological site of importance, perched on a cliff overlooking the beach, just beyond Tulum. Go as early as possible to avoid the crowds and heat, and come prepared with sunscreen and a hat. There are 2 entrances-one coming up from the North beach and here you can park on the side of the road and walk the rest of the way. The other is coming from town and is the more touristy entrance. You’ll need to walk a bit to the main entrance from both entry points, or you can take a pedicab/trolley. There is a public beach just south of the ruins that I’d recommend going to and plunging in after. You can access this either from the ruins by walking down steep stairs, or you can walk up from the beach road just South of the ruins.
Scuba Dive in a Cenote
This is for experienced divers only. My friend went and loved it; I’ve also heard its better than the ocean, because there aren’t a lot of fish and things to see in the ocean
Yoga
Check out many of the studio options, or arrange for a private class at your hotel
Snorkling
Rumor has it North beach is better for this, however, I didn’t go
Getting Around Tulum
Renting a Car
We rented in town, but in hindsight it would’ve been better to rent from the airport. This saves you on the shuttle costs, and you can shop around. We went with Alamo, and it wasn’t as cheap as advertised. You are required to get the insurance even if your credit card covers it (the TPL at a min). It ended up costing around $85 for 2 days, in total. Since taxis can cost around $25 USD one way from town to the beach, and are not much cheaper at the beach, this may be the way to go. Deciding factors will be where you are staying, how comfortable you are driving from the airport and on the terrible beach road, and how frequent you’ll use it. If you do end up renting a car, definitely go the speed limit and watch out for “topes” (large speed bumps that are often unmarked). Also, figure out if your hotel and the beach clubs you’d like to frequent offer parking.
Taxis
are very expensive from town to the beach ($25-30 USD one way), and around $15-20 to get around once on the beach road. They also seem to charge whatever they want, on demand and higher during peak times (nighttime). If you find a driver you like, get their Whatsapp to schedule a ride and an agreed upon price in advance. It will be difficult to contact them once leaving a place on the beach however, due to limited cell service and extreme traffic. It’s very helpful to know a little bit of Spanish and try to negotiate with them a bit, as I feel they respect you more and give you a better rate. Also aways carry cash and smaller bills in case they don’t have change. You can do this either in pesos or actually many accept USD. There is no Uber/ride share program currently here.
Bicycles
a lot of people do bike here but I’d recommend only in town and to the nearby cenotes. I definitely would not recommend biking on the beach road, as the roads are horrendous with massive pot holes, frequent flooding, and very narrow. I would not feel safe with the amount of traffic and definitely wouldn’t be a pleasant experience biking through small lakes and craters that could send you toppling over.
Scooters
same as above, but I see a lot of people on them
Shuttle from the Airport
about a 2 hour drive, depending on traffic, and other unforeseeable events (flat tires, etc.) cost $100 per way for a shuttle. We found a nice taxi driver once in town and negotiated the rate of $75 on the way back to the airport.
Walking
it can be very hot and the beach road isn’t very walkable, especially if you’re dressed nice. I’d recommend walking along the beach instead if your destination isn’t very far, and you’re comfortable with sweating a lot. Walking around town is very easy and do-able, just DO NOT walk back to your hotel late at night-take a taxi. Even though you may feel safe, this is a false sense of security as there still is plenty of crime here-do not risk it.
Helpful Tips
Groceries
much cheaper drinks and snacks at the grocery store. If you’re on a budget, I recommend stocking up here, at least for snacks, drinks for the beach/pool if your hotel allows. Would be very helpful to have a fridge or a cooler with ice to keep things cold, or perhaps your hotel can store things in the fridge for you. Bring your own bags if you have them-they do not provide
Reservations
A LOT of places require reservations, especially at the beach and the more popular beach clubs. You won’t get into PPP, Hartwood nor Taboo without a reservation, for example. Actually, make a reservation at Hartwood at least a month in advance if you’d like to go. It’s easier to go to places in town on a whim however. You won’t need reservations here but go early if you’re planning on Batey’s mojito bar.
Covid Precautions & Requirements
I went in Nov. 2020 before most Americans were vaccinated so this may have changed since then, but everywhere was pretty packed and no one was really wearing masks. So if you’d prefer to social distance, I’d avoid traveling here. The waitstaff hardly had their masks on correctly too, and many had this strange plastic mouth guard thing on instead. I was a little nervous at first but quickly adapted to this atmosphere, and it felt liberating. They do take precautions such as checking your temp and providing hand sanitizer before entering nearly everywhere however, and all places were closed by 1 am.
Safety
Even though you may feel safe, always be vigilant of your surroundings and do not walk around late at night, nor go to the beach late at night. There still is plenty of crime here even though it’s “Americanized”.
Traffic
I cannot emphasize the amount of traffic enough-it’s really bad, mostly on the beach road. It’s also an extremely narrow road shared with pedestrians, bikes, and the biggest pot holes. Cars also make frequent stops. I’d minimize the amount of time of hopping around at all costs, if you can.
Cash/credit cards
ask to be charged in pesos when using a credit card; the currency exchange rate is favor of the USD. Most places do accept cards and I’d recommend going this way especially if your credit card provides travel points and/or doesn’t have international transactions fees. Some places only accept cash however-Hartwood, this cute pizza place in town, and taxis, so it is a good idea to get pesos out. I’d just withdraw directly from the ATM in pesos-and decline the ATM’s conversation rate and let your bank do it. It’s typically better. The line to exchange money was crazy long, and they still charge a conversion fee.
Best Time of Year to Travel
The best time to visit Tulum is between November and December. It’s a little cooler, it’s not hurricane season, a (little) less crowded, and the hotel prices are more reasonable. It’s hot no matter what time of the year, however.
What to Wear and Pack
coming soon, including fashion tips